HOW TO TRAIN CURLY HAIR
Having curly hair can be a struggle. It takes time and effort for curly hair to look good, but oh my, once achieved, it is just stunning. My hair is straight and flat; I struggle to get any volume in my hair. How I wish to have naturally curly hair, but we all want what we haven’t got, right!
This blog is to try and guide you through the do’s and don’ts of curly hair.
Have you ever had that client come in with what you think is dead straight smooth hair, only to discover when wet these unbelievably beautiful curls? You then ask your client, ‘why oh why are you hiding these amazing curls?’ Their response is, ‘I hate it; I can’t do anything with it; it’s frizzy, and I look like a cave person.’ In situations like this, I see this response as a challenge to educate the client and hopefully make them see just how amazing their natural curls can be.
Now, here’s the science bit about curly hair. Curly hair is a dominant gene, so if one parent has curly hair, it is more likely that the child born will carry on that gene of curly or wavy hair. Curly hair is known as damaged hair because as it grows through the hair follicle and finds its way into the world, its wavy curly structure of the strand weakens the cuticles, resulting in tangling. Someone with curly hair may complain that their hair always feels dry; this is because the oils from the scalp struggle to slide down the hair due to its shape. Someone with straight fine hair will often complain of their hair feeling greasy or lank because scalp oils easily run down their hair. So, basically, you can’t win; we are never happy. Curly hair needs more nourishment than straight hair; leave-in conditioners work great.
Now, let’s talk about washing curly hair. When washing curly hair, it’s important to remember not to have the water too hot, as this can result in drier hair/curls. Washing in cooler water will also promote shine in the hair. When choosing shampoos, it’s best to pick ones specially designed for curly hair, as they will have the ingredients that curly hair craves—ingredients like Aloe vera, coconut oils, keratin, avocado oil, and shea butter are all good for curly hair. When lathering up the hair, don’t vigorously scrub it; this will only lead to tangling, and as curly hair is more prone to tangles, there is no need to encourage this behavior. Give the scalp a gentle massage, then squeeze the excess shampoo down the hair shaft to the ends, rinse, and then apply conditioner. Always apply conditioner to the ends first, then the mid-lengths. Grab yourself a large-toothed comb and begin combing through. Once tangles are out, rinse with cool water, then pat and squeeze dry, preferably with a microfiber towel or a cut-up cotton t-shirt. DO NOT scrub dry as if you were drying a dog; just pat and squeeze.
Once you have lovingly patted and squeezed the excess water out of the hair, it’s exercise time. Gently tip your head to one side or bend directly over so you are looking in-between your legs (hence the exercise). Gently separate the curls with your fingers to let the hair form its natural shape and bend. Cup the curls gently in the palm of your hand and lift towards your head. Do this a few times while bent in an awkward position. Now it’s time for products. It’s best to use products specially designed for curly hair. One of my favorite products is called Twistedsista curl perfection crème gel. Apply the chosen products to the palm of your hands and sandwich sections of your hair in-between your hands, starting at the root of the hair, sliding your hands down the hair towards the ends. Once applied to each section, tilt the head and begin cupping again, lifting the curl towards the scalp.
You have two options with curly hair: either air dry by keeping cupping and lifting or diffuse dry by gently holding the diffuser slightly away from the hair but just enough for the hair to feel the heat while still lifting and cupping with your free hand.
Now, you should have bouncy, lush curls lasting for days. If you find your curls drop, just spritz with water to reactivate the products in the hair and cup and lift, cup and lift.
By now, if you only take two things from this little tip blog, it should be squeeze and pat and cup and lift. Happy curling!