Perms… Yes, perms, they are making a comeback, and I love that they are. What’s the first thing you think of when you hear the word perm? Do you think of old lady curls or beach babe vibes? A perm does not discriminate by age; it is there for everyone, young or more mature. A perm can do many things; yes, it can restructure the hair into tiny curls, but it can also do the opposite—it can be soft and give just a wave or even bouncy body at the root area.
When someone sits in the hot seat in front of you and says, “So, I’ve been thinking I really want a perm,” you must ask them why. This is a crucial question, as a lot of clients think that getting a perm is easy. They believe it’s a “get up and go” hairstyle, which to some degree it is. However, if they have never had curly or wavy hair, they need guidance on how to look after it, style it, and also wash it. If your client shows you a picture of a model who has obviously curled their hair with tongs, a wand, or straighteners, and the client thinks that is the look the perm will achieve just by doing its thing, then they are sadly mistaken. If a client wants a beachy wave for ease during a holiday, then yes, a perm will achieve that, but the smooth, separate, soft curl that can only be achieved with the above-mentioned tools—then, sadly, a perm is not for them.
Perms have come a long way from the days when many wires were attached to your head, and you crossed your fingers and prayed that this wasn’t the day the machine decided to fry you alive. Perms used to have the most overwhelming smell of eggs. It didn’t matter how many times you washed your hands; the smell lingered for days. Also, after you had finished neutralizing the perm, the hair used to feel crispy and hard. Clients used to have to choose either highlights or a perm; it was a no-no or discouraged to have both chemical treatments done on the hair, especially if the hair was longer than the chin.
Now, however, perms are softer and more advanced. The smell of eggs still lingers in the air but nowhere near what they used to smell like. On the market, you can buy Acid, Alkaline, or Ammonia-free perms. Acid perms are usually used if the hair is sensitized. These perm lotions are used for post-damping only. Heat can be used with an Acid perm. Alkaline perms are usually used on resistant hair or hair that has not been chemically treated previously. They are cold wave perms, which means no heat is needed. Ammonia-free perms are great starter perms, usually better known as body perms. These perm lotions are brilliant if the client wants to dip their toe into the world of waves. It will be soft, give body to the root area, but it will also work its way out of the hair within around 6-8 weeks. So, it’s a no-commitment perm or, should I say, a very low-commitment perm.
Let’s dive into the waves together and be thankful that the science of perming has moved on leaps and bounds from the picture below.
